Uganda - Mountain Gorillas of Bwindi

In January we set off to Rwanda to only have our airplane break mid air and have to turn back. This little delay made us miss the most sought after part of our trip. Determined to make it happen we booked our trip again once home with an even larger agenda in mind. 

Original Post: https://www.tripnwithtrina.com/blog/2019/1/27/roaming-in-rwanda

We decided this time to make an overnight trip of the hike instead of the day trip. I am completely glad we did as the views at Rushaga Lodge were a definite highlight. The lodge is tucked in the middle of the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park close to all the gorilla trek start points. Our guide Christopher picked us up promptly at 8am from our Kigali guesthouse. 

Below is a breakdown of the inclusions and itinerary. I do not add full costs as its dependent on the number of people, budget range and number of nights.

Permits in Uganda at this time are $600 per person versus $1500 in Rwanda. In July 2020 permits in Uganda will increase to $700 per person.

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Safari cost Includes

• Gorilla permit

• 1 night accommodation (Budget/Mid-range) - Triple room

• Meals

• Bottled Water

• 4x4 Safari car to and from Kigali

• Fuel

• English speaking driver-guide

• Hotel pickup and drop off in Kigali

• A stop at Lake Bunyonyi/Lake Mutanda

Safari Itinerary

Transfer to Uganda

Our driver will meet you at the hotel to kick-start our safari. You will then head to Uganda through Katuna Border. Upon crossing, you will head to Kabale Town known as "The Switzerland of Africa". We can have a stop at lake Bunyonyi for relaxation (or stay there for the night) and pictures and then settle in our lodge for gorilla tracking the following day.

Day 2: Gorilla trekking and transfer back to Kigali

This is the gorilla trekking day. Early in the morning, you will gather at the park offices where you will find fellow trekkers.

Please make sure you let the ranger know your interests before attaching you to a group. Some gorilla groups require a certain amount of physical fitness and might not be favorable to every one. Therefore availing this information to your ranger will help him to organize the best gorilla group to track.

Here you will be grouped(8 people) and the ranger will take you through the rules or Do's and Dont's of gorilla trekking.and then he will lead you into the forest to track the gorillas. The ranger uses radio communication to stay in touch with the trackers who head into the forest way before you start on your way into the forest. The trackers inform your ranger about the whereabouts of the gorillas and direct him to the actual location of the gentle giants.

You will then spend a maximum of 1 Hour in the presence of the gorillas. Here you will be able to take pictures and observe the way of life of these primates. After the experience, you will trek back out of the forest. Our driver will be waiting for you and will take you back to Kigali. 

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Now lets get back to the journey. The trip takes around 5 hours from Kigali to the Bwindi area. We came in rainy season this time so roads were washed out in places. Ebola has been found in the area so we did have to go through checkpoints both ways at the borders. 

The lunch in route was impromptu as the Coffee Pot Cafe we intended to eat at was closed on Sundays. We stopped at the hostel across the street for a quick lunch. There are no complaints as the views of Volcanoes National Park were amazing from their courtyard. The roads take you into some remote villages overlooking numerous lakes around Bwindi. 

As you can see in the itinerary its an early morning meeting with the rangers. The family we were assigned to was the Mucunguzi group which had 8 members; including 1 male silverback and 3 babies. There are ton of packing suggestions all over the internet, but personally the must have for the hike was a porter, walking stick, water, gloves, bug spray and gaiters. 

The cost for the porter are around $15 each and it includes the trekking pole. Please tip your guides, rangers and trackers. This maybe the closest you get to helping someone who devotes their time and effort everyday to save these amazing animals. You will get two trackers, two guides and one ranger on your trek. Any tip is honestly welcome, but $5 each for a full day with them is standard for tipping. 

Our car drove us to the start and we setoff into the jungle. About an hour into our trek we found out we accidentally started tracking the wrong family. All the food and drinks we packed and the porters were carrying were coming in handy. Plan for the worst and hope for the best in terms of length of hike. You could be out there for nearly 6 hours if the family is further into the forest. 

The trackers located our group and we started off again around 11am. The hike was straight down the mountain through some crazy foliage; which took a lot of effort to stay upright. We slipped often and even with the best shoes it was hard to navigate through the wild vines they had recently hacked away with machetes. About an hour into the hike and we located the group. We left all our belongings with porters and went to meet the gorilla group. 

We came upon the male silverback first. The first rule of gorilla trekking is do not run when the gorillas approach you. The trackers were hacking at some bushes around the very massive gorilla and lets just say it got agitated. He did charge us showing his teeth. It is something I will always remember, as most in the group tried to run. Its funny now, but in hindsight it was pretty scary in the moment. A real reminder that while they have been habituated to human contact over the last 20 years. They are still wild animals in the jungle. 

After the silverback decided it was nap time we moved on to find the rest of the family. A few minutes later we located the mother and two of the babies. The babies were super playful and we really had to stay still as possible, as they became quite curious of our presence. You try to maintain at least 7 meters in distance between yourself and the gorillas at all times. The hour passed by so quickly as we moved positions for better views of the family. 

The trek back out of the jungle was completely straight up. We used vines to pretty much swing ourselves up to higher levels, as the undergrowth was so thick you could barely place your feet on the ground below. We are given a completion certificate for all our efforts. We hugged our guides and thanked them for all the memories we made with their help. We headed back to the van where the rest of our packed lunch remained and drove onward to Kigali. 

Happy Traveling,   

Katrina 

No fee was paid for this review by the company and my trip was not compensated for a review. 

Tour operator: 

https://gorillaandadventuresafaris.com

Photos are a combination of efforts from Debbie, Diane, Krystle and myself.

Roaming in Rwanda

Rwanda is a country that is known by many for the devastation that happened in 1994. What Rwanda is today is a country vast in culture, pride and beauty. It’s a country that will leave you in awe and coming back for more. The country is clean, I mean so clean you would think that litter did not exist in the country. In 2006 Rwanda banned plastic bags and even has a day a month dedicated to cleaning (Umuganda Day).

 Our original intention was to visit Bwindi from Kigali for an incredible Gorilla trek, but our Brussels Airlines flight was diverted back to Brussels due to plane malfunction. As fun as it was to come in for an emergency landing with fire trucks chasing us in; it was bittersweet that a full day in this country was missed. It was a guarantee we would be back in the near future.  We did not let the little hiccup get us down. Arriving a day late, but ready to visit the most underrated African safaris.

Upon arrival we were whisked away by our driver Emmanuel. We stayed in The Nest boutique guesthouse, which was in the heart of Kimihurura. A standard room with a city view, comfy bed and warm shower is what they delivered. Just a short walk away from the hotel we grabbed a quick dinner with city view from the infamous Republic lounge. The food was incredible and I was dreaming of my grilled goat and garlic potatoes the rest of the trip.

The next morning Kagera Safaris picked us up before the sun for our day trip to Akagera National Park. Nearly a two hour drive through the Rwanda countryside; it was definitely a highlight of our trip. Akagera is a point to point safari, meaning we came in the south and came out the north of the park. There is an optional boat safari, which in hindsight wish we had booked. The park offers all of the Big 5!! It is one the most affordable safaris I have done so far in Africa.

After 100km of driving through the park spotting wildlife at every turn, we headed back to Kigali at dusk. The infamous Republic Lounge was closed for the day, so we headed to the Crêperie next door for some sweet and savory creations.

To occupy our last day in the city we found GoKigali Tours to show us around. Boy we were in for a treat. The guide Eric was authentic and the tour ticked every desire. We visited markets, tasted local fruit, sailed on boats, drank coffee & milk. We even visited the Genocide Memorial, which is worth the visit to learn more about the Rwandan devastation.

If you visit Rwanda you are in for a treat. It was definitely the best country I could have picked for country number 100!!

Happy Traveling,

Katrina

(Photos credit by D. Miraballes)

Sunshine and Southern Africa

Sunshine and Southern Africa

After watching a recent reality show where two men road tripped from Scotland to Cape Town. I was completely intrigued about what Africa had to offer. All great things start with a flight and a ton of planning. I decided to use Victoria Falls for my base to travel around the region. Many safaris and overland tours use Victoria Falls, as a starting and end-point for their tours. Usually only spending a day or two in the area.

There are 3 airports that serve the region, and all are in three different countries. Picking the right one and the right visa is key to a seamless trip. I watched quite a few American’s come via Botswana and did only single-entry visas for the region. They were held at the border for over 3 hours trying to enter. I cannot stress enough that if you plan to country hop the Kasa Visa (Zimbabwe and Zambia) 30-day visa was the best option. I do not believe it’s possible to obtain this when coming into Botswana currently.

Now do you book ahead or wing it on arrival? I came in the height of high-season and many of the tours I had booked were sold out when I arrived. So, it’s a risk you must weigh if you chose to wing it. Choosing who to book through was the hardest thing by far. With the amount of tour companies in the area, it was overwhelming to say the least. I decided to go with Shearwater Adventures, as they were budget friendly and offered the largest variety of tours. They even helped with organize an external camping trip, but due to the water levels it had to be cancelled last minute.

Day One

Upon arrival I was collected by the Shearwater staff and taken to Explorers Village in the heart of Victoria Falls. The village offered camping and chalet accommodation. I stayed in a tent the first two days and then moved to the chalets the latter three days. To be honest knowing what I know now I would have stayed in the tents the whole time, as it was feasible for time I spent in the “room”. The shower/toilet block was large and clean. Don’t forget a towel and a lock for your tent and you are set.  The village was a five-minute walk to local craft markets and most of the restaurants. The falls were under a 10-minute walk.  

Straight off the plane I wasted no time and headed over to get some views of the bridge and waterfalls. There is a small trail that runs parallel to the road to the falls. Along the way you will see signs for the “Lookout Cafe” which is owned by Wild Horizons another prominent tour company in the area. I turned up as lunch was ending, but they did not skip a beat in letting me order. The view from here was downright incredible. From their viewpoint you can watch the zipline and swing that plunges into the falls. I called it an early night and headed back to camp.

Day Two

The next morning, I was collected for my trip to Botswana. The border crossing was quite quick, if you have the right visa to exit Zimbabwe. I love pedestrian border crossings, as they always have that good amount of chaos and excitement. We had some free time in Kasane to walk around before heading down to Chobe Safari Lodge on the river. Killing some time before our safari boat launch and I opted for a speed boat tour along the river. It was amazing, as you get into areas where the large barges cannot reach. If you an elephant lover, you are in for a freaking treat!!

I had pre-booked the game drive and river safari cruise with lunch to commence at 11am. You will get close to crocodiles, hippos and if you are lucky you will see tons of elephants. I preferred the water safari over the land, as many of the animals had already started migrating due to the bush being dry in areas. We saw a lot of impalas, water buffalo and a family of giraffes.

The group headed back to Zimbabwe and I met up with some of the other campers. We had found out that there was a free bus to Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, which is said to have the best sunset views. Off we went on the bus to check out this new-found gem. Upon arrival we headed to the bar for drinks and grabbed a seat overlooking the national park. The sunset did not disappoint in the slightest and glad this saved us the chaotic burden of the sunset cruise.

Day Three

Another morning and another activity. This by far was the one I was looking forward to the most. Canoe safari down the Zambezi river. I convinced one of the campers to join me, as I had book two spots to have this private tour. We headed through the national park for about 25km until reaching our landing point. As it was very early the game in the park was really on the move. We spotted so many animals, including a mother and baby giraffe.

We stopped and had a quick breakfast with the guides. The guides went over all the risks and safety information and we set off down the Zambezi. I say risks, as there are points when you come in close contact to hippos and they do try to capsize boats. I will not sugar coat it, I was damn scared. But how cool to talk about if you survive. This is quite strenuous, as you do canoe for over 20km down a river avoiding wildlife and debris. I got the experience of a lifetime and while we did have a near miss. I call it a win in my book.

As the excursion was quite early we ventured out to the Victoria Falls Bridge for some views. This was the perfect time to watch the bungee jumpers from the main platform. I cannot believe that over 1,000 people a month jump off that bridge. 90% of them women. The money from the activities on the bridge is used to paint and provide restoration. Sunset was approaching, and we whisked off to local brewery for some beer and grub. The River Brewing Company was touristy, but tasty.

Day Four

The next day was a bit chaotic, as I naively crammed three tours in one day. It usually works, but my transport in route was shared and well the group sharing transport turned up nearly an hour late (no apologises either). I started my day in a foul mood to be honest. The transport rushed me to the border to start my historic bridge tour, but I had missed it. They sorted it out and got me a private guide Simba. He really made the best of my frustrating morning. You are given some information about the bridge and then jump in a harness to walk the underneath of the bridge. I found this interesting and had the pleasure of a train coming over the top when we were underneath. As we finished the tour I walk to meet the bus and see it leaving back to Zimbabwe. Apparently, the others who were late, were too impatient to wait another 5 minutes for me to finish. The irony I tell you. The driver came back shortly after, as he saw me waving him down from Zambia. (HAHA)

I was rushed to the National Park to meet my guide Thabani for our waterfall tour. It was well worth the wait!! As it was now mid-afternoon most of the tourist had left. We had the waterfalls to ourselves for most of the tour. After a picturesque walk in the rain forest we headed back to the lodge. I killed a few hours before the sunset cruise I had booked for this evening.

I will spare you the grim details, but if you want to feel like cattle on a boat this is for you. We had arrived nearly last and others had already rearranged tables for their parties. I get it, but spare seats were sparse and forget anyone being considerate when asked to use a chair they had their bags in. I ended up standing right above the stairs in a nook to even get breathing room. Only bonus is unlimited booze was included, but we got some very unpleasant looking snacks. There were lots of boats on the river that looked orderly, but this was not it. So, do your research and book a sunset dinner cruise. I believe I got a better experience for free at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, but to each their own. The amount of alcohol consumption helped my fear of heights, as impromptu booked the helicopter flight for the next day.

Day Five

Final day in Victoria Falls and my hike to the Boiling Point was cancelled the night before. Rightfully so as the water was still too high, and we would have been swept away. There was one spot left to visit the local Elephant Orphanage. It was a before sunrise departure, but I felt it was totally worth it. On arrival you are greeted by the staff at the lodge and paired up with an elephant for your 45-minute walk.  I will spare you too many details but consider the Elephant Back Safari. After a walk in the bush, snacks with the elephants and breakfast we left. I was thankful I was able to go and learn more about the elephants native to the region. This is no dog and pony show, so if you really want to learn about elephant migration and conservation this place is for you. They limit the visitors to around 30 people a day.

Then the finale happened. Somehow convinced that getting in a helicopter over the falls was a great idea. My fear of heights and questioning the safety of the aircraft kept playing over and over in my head.  The van showed up to take me about 10 minutes away to the helipad. After arriving I jumped on the scale with my bags in hand and was briefed on my 15-minute flight. The couple I was to share the trip with had flown before, so pretty much told me I was taking the front seat. It was incredible and memorable seeing the falls from a few thousand feet above. You can get the video from your flight after your tour if you wish.

This trip was really one of the most amazing trips I have been on. It was great to meet so many people along the way, but enjoyed being outside my comfort zone alone.

Happy Travels,

Katrina